29 September – 4 October
Wednesday 29th September we woke to sunshine, and after our late night rainstorm cycle decided to take a rest day to dry out ourselves and our kit. Camped in the middle of the River Severn’s large meander, we walked went for a stroll around along the river, stopping for an ice cream at the Old Passage Inn. Drink at the nearby Red Lion pub in Arlingham in the evening. Our boots were almost dry by the evening!
Thursday 30th September: to Bath. Set off at 10am inland to join route 41, for 11 miles along the Vale of Berkeley. We crossed and then followed the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal for a while, and then on minor roads parallel to the Severn largely on the flat. Eventually we reached the M48 and M4, crossing both with views of the Severn Bridge, and arriving at Severn Beach at 3.30pm in low grey cloud. We walked along the promontory for a while, and then looking at the route through Bristol’s urban docklands, not appealing after a morning of cycling around motorways in the drizzle, we therefore decided to catch a train from here into Bristol and then on to Bath; our first ‘cheat’ since starting.
From Bath station we found our way onto route 4 and a pleasant evening ride along a canal to Bathampton, a steep climb up to our friend’s David and Sophie’s house for a takeaway curry. When it arrived it was a very welcome meal and so lovely to be in a friends house and another bed. Quite a late night but great to catch up with old friends on the route. It really was a boost after a few long wet days for us to make it to the end of our cyclemoon (wherever we decided that would be!)
Friday 1st October after a quick walk with Sophie to explore their new home, we cycled back into Bath and explored the town, taking in the Royal Crescent and bath houses, before sheltering from a rain shower on the covered bacony of Cafe Lucca for tea and brunch. Then west across the town on Route 4 along the River Avon, which took us onto a disused railway all the way to Bristol. Lunch at the Avon Valley Railway buffet and then onwards along the railway line (part of which still used for steam trains) through a good length tunnel and eventually into the outskirts of Bristol.
Bristol felt like a very large city compared to anything since Liverpool, with tower blocks and high rise office buildings on all sides. We headed to the docks and museum area, walking our bikes along past the SS Great Britain, before crossing back to the north side of the docks, and then west along the pedestrianised waterfront past bars filling up with Friday evening punters. Continued along the River Avon north/east bank via the “Severn Way” with views across to Avon Gorge. Steep climb up onto Clifton Down and across the down, with a visit past the site of one of Hannah’s cases (. Stopped off to buy some beer before cycling up to Henleaze and our friends Seb and Natalie. Parked up bikes in their garage, showered up in the attic. Tasty brocolli pasta bake with S&N and their 2 kids whilst they prepped party bags for Kirsten’s birthday party on Sunday.
Saturday 2nd October lazy breakfast, then retraced our route to Clifton Down where we branched off south down backstreets along cycle route 4 back into city centre. Then route 33 along the north side of the docks, past dinghies sailing in a gusty breeze and watersport lessons. Crossed the River Avon and immediately into countryside along offroad cycle track. Skirted Long Ashton and then along the Weston Super Mare railway. At Farleigh we turned off the route briefly to seek shelter at the George pub during some heavy rain. Skirting south of Nailsea we joined route 26 on minor roads to Yatton where we stopped at the Strawberry Line cafe at the old railway station for lunch.
Afterrnoon we followed route 26 along the disused Strawberry rail line south past cider orchards, across the River Yeo. Then across the edge of the Mendip Hills, through a tunnel and past Winscombe. At Axbridge we turned east and onto minor roads, past Cheddar Reservoir and into the village of Cheddar. At Cheddar YHA, left bikes in the shed and bought food at Sainsbury’s to cook back at the hostel. Met a single Mum and kids in the kitchen – the YHA was where they met up while she was getting her housing situation in order. A different perspective to what hostels are for.
Sunday 3rd October – a whirlwind day of (climbing up) Cheddar gorge, over the Mendip Hills, lunch in Wells and then sunset ontop of Glastonbury Tor. Starting the day in glorious morning sun, we looked in at the Cheddar Gorge Cheese company, trying a few vintages before heading up the gorge. Steep climb with a mix of walking and cycling up to 250 m, with tourist cars passing steadily by. Great views from the top out over the Somerset Levels. Continued along the plateau to Priddy, with its thatched hurdle stack on the village green. Joined cycle route 3 and had a delightful descent down from the Mendips to Wookey Hole with its cave and mini theme park. At the bottom, a short bike ride into Wells.
Entering Wells we initally mistook a large church for the cathedral (oops!). A couple of photos later and general comments that the quality of cathedrals had deteriorated, we turned a corner and finally correctly identified the, magnificant, cathedral. We were almost as excited about a Flapjack company pit stop and on different stop at Bishops Palace gardens for picnic lunch. Saw the vicar’s close cobbled street before looking around the beautiful cathedral.
Route 3 southeast out of Wells across River Sheppey and then on minor roads southwest through the levels to Glastonbury. Initially to the abbey but this was closing so then along the main street full of alternative shops down to the isle of Avalon caravan park. After pitching tent we climbed Glastonbury tor to see the sunset. Beautiful. Then dinner in a pub and drink at another pub. What a day!
Monday 4th October, we did dinner clothes washing at the campsite first thing, making the most of their tumble dryers as well. Then headed west across the levels. Some wetlands and peat being cut, piled high in large heaps. Lunch at cossington. Then southwest along large field drains and minor roads past Bridgwater, before heading south along the Bridgwater and Taunton canal, with its low bridges and scale model of the solar system. Followed this all the way to the edge of Taunton, with plenty of locks along the way and a crossing under the M5.
Stayed at the Tanpits cider farm campsite, camping amongst apples trees, albeit by a busy main road. Headed to the merry monk pub for dinner, with a proper carvery! Back to the tent before a very wet night.
Pedalling_Patagonia 