25-28 September
South of Chester we had a choice to make. We could either follow route 552 further east to Market Drayton and Nantwich to Telford, or take route 45 further west via Whitchurch towards Shrewsbury, both routes joining at Bridgnorth. We opted for the latter mainly to avoid some notable hills and also conscious of time as we had to be back at our desks mid October. A date which was getting closer and we still had a rather long way to cycle!
So on Saturday 25th September we left Birch Bank and rejoined route 45, initially following the Shropshire union canal. Although rather nice and flat, this was rather long and mundane cycling on a mix of tow path quality. We then turned off south to Tattenhall and on minor roads southeast up and down rolling hills to the Llangollen canal at Wrenbury with it’s marina and interesting lifting road crossing.
Rather than continuing on route 45, which turned southwest here, we headed southeast on route 70 and then 552 on minor roads to Market Drayton, crossing the Shropshire union canal at Audlem, where we picked up supplies at coop. Very traditional English countryside with old brick barns, fields of Friesian dairy cows, and high hedges along the roads. Whilst we avoided any big hills, the continual up and down, and lack of views, made it quite a long tough afternoon. Not quite the easy ride that we initially thought!
Crossed the Shropshire union canal again half way to Newport, where we then branched off the cycle route south to find our campsite. This meant picking our way along minor roads, through a wooded estate past a sports center and eventually to Teds farm campsite by 7.30pm in the dusk. The owners seemed to have enjoyed Saturday with much alcohol, but were just capable of pointing us to a large open field. Pitched up and cooked in the dark, very tired.
Campsite was rather disappointing and we regretted not going the hillier route which would have included Iron Gorge and a campsite with firepits – one for another day! Up and downs amongst hedges are actually more wearing than one big hill, in our revised opinions!
Sunday 26th September we decided to find our own way south to Kidderminster without joining any sustrans cycle routes. Left the campsite at 11am heading south on minor roads with little hills, fields and woods. Crossed a ford and then over the M54 to Albrighton and on south to the Wolverhampton Halfpenny Green airfield. This was a rather bizarre lunch stop in the middle of an airfield with a cafe just under traffic control which provided a decent lunch stop cafe and tour of an aircraft hanger.
Minor roads to Enville and Kinver, and eventually to the River Stour at Wolverley. We then followed a river path all the way into Kidderminster. This path became route 54 and continued along the river, past red cross bedded sandstone, and then the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal all the way to Stourport on Severn. There we found the River Severn path and followed it west a short way to Lickhill Manor caravan park.
An official ‘eco’ campsite, we were the first cycle tourers that had ever stayed at the campsite. A rather sad statistic. We were also greeted on a arrival by a mad bee. Robbie, the gallant husband, was the first to be chased and immediately ran inside the reception slamming the door before Hannah had fully appreciated what was going on. The bee then turned its attentions on Hannah, abandoned outside with the bikes. Views on what happened next differ, but by the author’s recollection Robbie refused to open the door to the reception to Hannah, resulting in a rather painful bee sting. Robbie’s version of events is that he didn’t want to trap the bee inside the reception area with us both inside (with the potential there would be other further mad bees outside….). First tiff of married life. Eventually the owner arrived and explained that they kept bees and had to move them to get honey which made them very angry. He showed us a spot well away from the hive where we pitched up. That might, we walked back along river to the Namaste curry house for dinner, next to the seemingly permanant ‘treasure island’ amusement park. Good veg curry, fish curry a bit weird.
Monday 27 September. Our tummys both felt slightly delicate post curry. Could be that it was a change from our staple sardines and pasta. We blamed the dodgy fish. May not eat curry house curry for a while. Relatively easy day following Route 45 east and south all the way to Droitwich spa. Then route 46 southwest, stopping for ice cream, and on into Worcester by 3pm. We decided to push the boat out and stay at another hotel, staying at the Old Crown hotel, now a wetherspoons, leaving the bikes in a store room downstairs. Ability to have a shower without walking across a campsite felt like the height of luxury. Certainly deprivation of things like ensuite showers does make you feel like you are having a 5* experience when they appear again! Certainly something we will remember for future experiences – always better to deprive yourself and things appear luxurious. Much easier (and cheaper!) than trying to find something even more luxurious compared to ‘normal’ life.
Continuing our evening of luxury, we were able to head to Worcester Cathedral for Evensong – really beautiful amongst the candlelit choir stalls. Then dinner at cote – so we were able to wear our fancy clothes twice in a week!
Tuesday 28th September good cooked breakfast and coffee at the wetherspoons and then south on route 45. Past the start of the Worcester and Birmingham canal, then inland to Tewkesbury. R waited by the abbey whilst Hannah sought lunch items from a fancy deli. More cheese bought than possibly necessary. Started to rain so we sheltered in a covered area by the Abbey Cafe. Asked to stay at the caravan club site in town but they claimed it was impossible due to council planning rules so we set off south in the rain for Gloucester. Robbie grumbling the whole way about all that is wrong with caravans.
Southwest in the valley of the river Severn and then turned south up and over some small hills in the rain with views down to Gloucester. Down and off road along the west channel then a disused railway into Gloucester docks – who knew that Gloucester had docks big enough for tall ships? Not us. Headed immediately to the cathedral in torrential rain and parked bikes in the entrance just as people gathered for evensong. Locked bikes and went inside to shelter from rain like little drowned rats.
Evensong was not the usual service. As water quietly pooled by our feet, we were greeted by a (female!) bishop in full mitre regalia (i.e. like a chess piece). We were not attired properly. The service included a hand over of various important roles for lifetime service. It was not a short service. We left at 6.30pm at the end of the main service as the forecast was for rain ending soon. Initially route 41 headed southwest along the Gloucester and Sharpness canal towpath. Rain instead of getting lighter, got heavier. Water was overtopping our boots. Campsite 12 miles away we pushed on along minor roads towards the river Severn estuary.
Rain now torrential, we ploughed through giant puddles in the dark, our feet starting to get really wet. We were cycling through lakes in the semi darkness. Half way to the site, like a vision, a glowing marquee appeared around a bend and we darted for the entrance to take shelter. Marquee was part of the Anchor inn, epney. R went inside to ask about food and it turned out it was pie night. It couldn’t really have been much better. We left bikes in the marquee and splattered inside, dripping. Pies ordered, we dried socks in the toilets, people recognizing us from driving to the pub. Best pies ever!
Well fed, we left pub at 9pm, the rain over, and trundled down to the West End Farm and campsite, nestled right in the meander of the River Severn, arriving not long after 10pm. Pitched up in the dark on wet but not boggy grass, exhausted but happy.
Pedalling_Patagonia 