Arrival in Liverpool along the Leeds and Liverpool canal towpath. Very urban past Victorian factory warehouses, some still with clanking metal and sparks flying out of the doors. Eventually came to the docks and a cruise ship departing with music playing. Cycled through historic quarter along American-like wide boulevards and past statues of the Beatles to our Holiday Inn overlooking Royal Albert Dock – our first luxury accomodation in a while. Took our pannier bags and bikes up to the room in stages, quite a walk along the hotel corridor. Great view over the docks. Washed ourselves and some clothes in the sink. Then off to explore the city centre.
Visited the excellent national maritime museum, with exhibitions on the world wars and Titanic, and the museum of Liverpool. Then for an early dinner at Mowgli restaurant – Indian Street food dishes and cocktails (thanks for the recommendation Laura & Nick!). Wandered around the cavern quarter (although nolonger the real Cavern bar – demolished for development that never happened!) past bars with live cover bands of oasis and saw the entrance to the cavern club. Then back to the bar below our hotel for a drink with live music and bed.
Friday 24th September caught the 11am ferry across the river mersey, it’s sides painted in bright 60s colours, also used as camouflage in the war. After an audio tour of the riverside highlights we arrived in Birkenhead and headed south along the wirral. Formal cycle route went north and then around down the west side of the island (and past West Kirby where we had previously team raced) so we had to find our own way along the Mersey side.
We did not choose the most picturesque of routes. The A41 had a cycle path along it, past the oil terminal and old rock ferry slipway and park, with grand old houses. Good views back to Liverpool, including a little sailing club. We branched off through Port sunlight park, along industrial roads to Eastham country park and through the oil storage depot. Unsure whether we could proceed (including being turned back a couple of times!) we made it through eventually, and then past motor vehicle works on route parallel to M53. Tricky navigation along industrial roads but finally made it to port Ellesmere and the national waterways museum, very relieved, just in time for lunch at the cafe.
From the museum, as featured as a film location in the Peaky Blinders, we found our way down onto cycle route 70, which took us along the pretty towpath of the Shropshire union canal. 40 mins after leaving the museum, Hannah came gliding to a stop with a flat rear tyre, a long Blackthorn thorn the culprit. Luckily we are now quite practiced in unpacking, changing tyres and replacing everything swiftly, at least on Hannah’s bike!
Followed the canal all the way down to Chester, arriving 1 hour later, crossing over an old towpath bridge and through the old city walls. Very easy access by bike. Visited beautiful red sandstone cathedral with ornate mosaics inside.
Half hour cycle east of Chester we arrived at Birch Bank farm campsite, with camping in the orchard. Cows in neighbouring field, one of which loved apples, and came over to the fence by our tent begging us for them. We duly obliged throughout dinner!
Pedalling_Patagonia 