15. Puerto Rio Tranquilo & Exploradores route

On Thursday 20th February we awoke to a chilly morning, showered and packed up to head west up the Rio Tranquilo valley, crossing into that of Rio Exploradores in search of the Exploradores glacier and views of the North Patagonian Ice Field. Richard and Jeanette had flagged it as a real highlight of the journey north and we left with high hopes.

On the way we picked up food supplies and bumped into none other than Brigitte, who had made it here in one piece and had decided to settle for a while. We also tried popping in to a car mechanic on the off chance he might repair bike tyres, with no success, and then continued on ripio up a very picturesque pasture valley, dotted with hay bales and sheep. We stopped for lunch at a hilltop mirador with views over Lago Tranquilo, interrupted only occasionally by Chilean tourists parking up for a photo (engines left running without fail!).

On the arrival of a bus-load of tourists, we decided to move on, and left just in time to avoid being swamped with questions and selfie requests. On the way down to the lake, Hannah’s rucksack slipped back off her rear panniers and left her floundering just out of Robbie’s earshot. Hearing her cries for help at last Robbie promptly dropped his bike, which ended upside down in the ditch. Mutual recriminations were eventually replaced by laughter and we continued onwards along rolling hills, gradually bearing northwest past meadow-clad verges towards show capped mountains.

20km from Puerto Rio Tranquilo we arrived at La Nutria campsite and cafe, and decided to stop here for two nights, enabling some faster lightweight cycling tomorrow to cover the remaining 60km to the glacier and back in one day. The site comprised a cafe by the road, an open fronted wooden refugio and a block of bathrooms each designated to one tent. We dodged horseflies whilst pitching up and sipping a cool apple juice from the cafe. The showers were gas heated but extremely temperamental, alternating between scalding hot and cold with a 5 second window of tolerable water every minute that made washing a challenge. Somewhat clean, we gave up and cooked dinner inside the refugio before heading to the cafe to investigate some lemon tart we’d noticed on the way in.

It is common to find many types of food excessively delicious whilst cycle touring, in response to their scarcity, but this tart was really special. The pastry was golden colour, moist and crumbly, and the combination of fresh mint and lemon curd just perfection on top. We ate a second slice whilst browsing a photographic book of Patagonia until the cafe shut and we headed to bed, carrying fresh mint the cafe owner and baker insisted we had for herbal tea.

On Friday morning we left our tent and set off northwest towards the Exploradores valley, with half empty panniers containing essential provisions only. After a brief climb, we met the Rio Exploradores, started descending and soon passed the Nutria waterfall cascading down to our left. Our bikes felt light and skittish after 10kg of weight loss, and the poor ripio road made for some back breaking bumps. Before long, the valley straightened and the road became an elevated causeway for a while, with submerged tree trunks on either side creating an eerie feel. Hills to the left were festooned in scree and boulders, the occasional tributary gushing down to meet the river.

We continued our descent as the road became more winding, the valley narrowed and the ripio worsened. We caught the odd glimpse of glaciers high above, and were now passed by the occasional car. Entering a wooded section of valley we heard rustling movement in the scrub to our right. Crashing and bashing, a startled herd of cows leaped out of the thicket and crossed just in front of Hannah’s bike. We proceeded with a little more caution to the end of the trees. As the road bore round to the southwest we were treated to spectacular views of glaciers ahead on the edge of the North Patagonian ice field. These were relatively short lived, as we crossed a long wooden plank bridge, and turned north once more.

Battling the ripio all morning, by 1.30 our thoughts turned to lunch. We knew we would have to retrace every pedal in the afternoon, uphill, and wondered how far to continue. The road surface was as bad as anything we’d yet experienced and we didn’t want to damage our bikes or bodies any more than necessary. IOverlander suggested a campsite cafe before long and we decided to review the situation there, in the hope they might share the baking skills of their neighbours to the south. On arrival, instead of cake, we were treated to the barking and snarls of four very defensive dogs. Lacking the energy to challenge them, we pushed onwards towards Lago Exploradores in the hope of a nice lunch spot and views of the Exploradores glacier.

The lake was frustratingly inaccessible at first, the road bordered by thick scrub, and we turned southwest again along the lake shore, growing steadily more desperate. At last, a track to the right provided access through the bush and we emerged onto a beautiful, uninhabited beach. We ripped off our lunch bags, collapsed in the shade of a tree and tucked into oaty soup, crackers, nuts and raisins. The beach was spectacular and after lunch Robbie tried out some drone footage. But now less than 10km from the trailhead for the Exploradores glacier, three views towards it were somewhat disappointing. We knew we had no time to do any of the trek today and after some thought we decided not to continue any further west. The bone jarring road uphill would be tough enough as it was without adding another hour.

The day had grown very warm, and now in no rush, we sheltered from the heat with a brief siesta before setting off at 4pm in dappled shade. Proceeding more slowly uphill, the going was tough but at least somewhat less bone shattering. We passed the barking dogs, crossed the bridges and ticked off the awe inspiring geology on the way. We reached the causeway as the sun disappeared behind the hills to the west and cooler air arrived. Surely we would soon be back in time to enjoy today’s tart and a beer. What could go wrong?

Just as dusk descended and the last horseflies disappeared, it was Robbie’s turn to come to a grinding halt, front wheel hissing and bellow ‘flat tyre!’ to stop Hannah disappearing off into the distance. Now well practised at changing, the issue was we couldn’t quite remember testing the previous tyre repair, or which tyre it was. Tired and rushing, Robbie picked one of the spares at random and made the change, without checking it inflated first. Having battled with the stiff tyre to get it off and on, we pumped it up and of course, it immediately deflated as well. After a few choice words, we finally found a working inner tube and finished the transfer.

It would be a lie to say we enjoyed this evening activity, but the causeway was beautiful in the evening light and we thanked goodness we were only a few km from camp. We plodded up the final hill past the waterfall and arrived at last to the welcoming sight of the cafe. Robbie went to start preparing dinner whilst Hannah bought two slices of tart and a can of cold beer.

Saturday morning was Robbie’s birthday, and we had a relaxing start before heading back to Puerto Rio Tranquilo. We tried to get the recipe for the tart but alas the baker was not around and her husband didn’t understand. One day we will have to return to find it.

The route back east was a delightful short hop compared to the previous day, the road washboarded but not strewn with cobbles. We passed some farmers making hay bales in the late summer sunshine and soon arrived at the edge of the village. Instead of returning to our original campsite, this time we stopped at a large grassy site at the end of the Exploradores road, close to the town beach and marble cave tour offices. Some online reviews described the owner as very rude, and there was an interesting smell, which suggested the town sewage works might be nearby, but we put up our tent in the shade of a hedge and phoned our parents. Hannah treated Robbie by washing some of his clothes and hung them out to dry on the tent.

It was then we met the camp owner, who was having an animated debate with a couple who we shortly discovered were from New Zealand. In a pause in this conversation, they came over to us to ask about our trip, and exchange some travel notes. We learnt they had come to ask about whether the camp showers were hot, and somehow ended up in a big argument with the owner, who reappeared and began very loudly demanding they leave at once. We felt glad to have dealt with his wife and bid the kiwis farewell.

At 5pm we wandered down to the tour offices to make enquiries about the caves. There were standard and extended boat tours and kayak trips to choose between, as well as whether to go in the evening now or early morning. After some debate we managed to get seats on the last standard trip this evening. We stocked up on snacks and headed down to the departure jetty around the bay.

The tour was fantastic. We thought the caves might be unique here but very similar to limestone caves in the Mediterranean. But in fact they were real marble, and our boat was able to tunnel inside them, all on board ducking our heads to fit through. There was an enormous array of stacks, arches and caves to view and our guide was very impressive in Spanish we understood in pieces. After being shown some condor nest sites on cliffs high above (barely visible) we returned back to shore upwind at high speed, bouncing over the choppy lake to the delight of the kids, and us, on board.

Back on dry land we went straight to find food and ended up on the upper deck of an intriguing triangle building, almost empty despite it being a Saturday evening. Hannah ordered calafate sour cocktails to start, before delicious trucha and beef stew and some delicious vino tinto. The homemade dessert made the perfect end to a near perfect birthday.

The journey so far…

Total Distance Bariloche to Puerto Rio Tranquillo 1,111 km

Total Ascent 13,330 m