On Sunday 26th January it was time to move on, and we hit the road south to start tackling the infamous border crossing ripio. Paved road was short-lived and soon we were slipping and sliding around on loose gravel surrounded by big blue skies. The going was no worse than Los Alerces and we made it to Nant y Fall stream by lunchtime, with signs for the vineyard of the same name. We cycled down past rows of vines and to the vineyard campsite. We were told it was fine to stay for lunch but on looking around at the little stream and idyllic pitches, seeing people tasting wine and smelling lamb roasting, feeling the heat growing and headwind strengthening, it took no time to decide to stay for the night.
The owner proudly told us he aimed to make it the best campsite in South America, and showed us wood-fired showers and clean toilets. We were fully convinced, and asked him what was on the menu for lunch. Hannah had trout ravioli whilst Robbie had set his heart on the lamb. Afterwards we asked about a vineyard tour and were told either we could have the owner’s mother show us around in Spanish, or opt for an English headset and map. Shyly, we chose the headset and proceeded on an excellent tour of the site.
The vineyard was run by a family of Italian origin, who bought the land before knowing what to do with it. After removing thick cover of wild roses, they initially tried using the stream for hydroponic fish farming, a common practice locally. But their dream was to make wine, a family tradition near Venice in Italy. The north facing slopes and well draining soil proved ideal conditions and they planted Pinot Noir and Riesling grapes with success. The biggest challenge is the frost, which at the most southerly vineyard in the world can happen at any time of year, even mid summer. To cope with this, they use very clever irrigating protection which is triggered any time the temperature drops. The water freezes on the grapes but can’t drop any further below freezing so protects them from harder frost. The occasional freezing makes the wine very unique with a deep dark red colour and summer fruit tastes.
At our obligatory tasting subsequently even we could taste the difference, and apparently the wine won the equivalent of a gold medal in 2018. The tasting was provided by a handsome young Italian Argentinian, the son of the family, who we heard was told to speak Spanish to us very slowly and with clear enunciation. He did so very well and Robbie learnt a great deal, whilst Hannah was strangely distracted by his eyes.
After the hearty lunch and wine we dozed the afternoon away writing some blog by the stream and lavender bushes, and drinking tea which the house puppy stole and burnt his tongue on, whilst the house cat looked on in disgust. After a wood fired hot shower, we cooked some “paella” dinner and got an early night ready for the border crossing tomorrow.
Pedalling_Patagonia 